Classic Military Automotive

Classic Military Automotive specializes in the sales, restoration and maintenance of 1941 to 1954 military jeeps and light weight trucks. We are located in the Sonoma County Wine Country of the greater San Francisco Bay Area.  Our customer base is primarily in California though we have sold vehicles to customers all over the USA and abroad.  We have a wide range of experience from complete frame-off restorations to regular maintenance services.

If you have any questions, or other needs, please don’t hesitate to email us at gpajeep@yahoo.com or call (707) 542-4353.

Here are a few links to some favorite pages on the old site:

• Previously Sold Vehicles
• Scrapbook
• Marmon Herrington Woody Restoration

The 134-L engine is very fragile and can be destroyed very easily. These engines are antiques and are very old and the metal is brittle and can crack at any time, if properly taken care of your new engine will and can last a long time, but here are the important things to know:

Special note… It is the customer’s responsibility to make absolutely sure that you maintain a 14:1 fuel/air mix ratio. When the mix is too rich, the rings and valves will become gummed up with carbon and the rings will stick, causing severe internal wear and engine damage.  When the mix is too lean, you can burn the valves and glaze the cylinder walls.

1. It very important that this engine is warmed up properly before moving the vehicle, DO NOT GOOSE THE THROTTLE WHEN COLD! Allow your new engine to come up to full operating water temp 160 to 180 degrees at fast idle, 800 RPMS.
2. Every 6 months, if possible, bring the vehicle back to the CMA shop for inspection of all engine systems, and or to a local mechanic that the proper experience to work on Antique vehicles and to perform a valve adjustment. Valve adjustments and head bolt torque should be performed on theses engine every 1000 miles AND OR EVERY 6 MONTHS under normal conditions. The correct valve adjustment is .014 IN. Ex. .014 “COLD”.
3. USE ONLY Shell Rotella “T” 15-40 ENGINE OIL, Oil changes should be performed every 3 MONTHS and or 500-Miles due to the lack of a full flow oil filter set up. Do not allow the engine oil to get dirty, the oil filter only filters 10% of the engine oil !!!! ALWAYS INSTALL A NEW OIL FILTER AT THE TIME OF OIL CHANGE ! ALWAYS USE THE ZINK OIL ADDITIVE ZDDP, AT EVERY OIL CHANGE FOR THE LIFE OF THIS ENGINE! which is available from Santa Rosa Auto parts.
4. Use a minimum of 50/50 coolant – antifreeze mix with distilled water and change the coolant mix every 12 months. Make absolutely sure at, all times, that your cooling system is clean and working properly. The water temp is critical and overheating can cause severe engine damage. Make sure that no pressure is allowed to build up inside the radiator. Make sure you use a cap that does not seal and or build up pressure inside the radiator.
5. Use a minimum of 87-Octane gasoline only in this engine, unleaded fuel is OK as the valves and seats have been up dated. DO NOT USE CHEAP GAS! If your engine is going to sit for more than 3 Months, drain the fuel from the fuel system, use fresh gas every time. DO NOT ADD FRESH GAS TO OLD GAS! It is OK to use Soltron additives in this engine. Make sure your fuel cap is venting properly. Make sure your fuel filter is checked and cleaned every 6 months. Make sure that you are not using ethanol fuel! If you are not sure, use 90 Octane unleaded racing gas!

WHAT TO DO, OR DON’T DO, WHEN REBUILDING THE L-BLOCK 134 FLAT HEAD JEEP MOTOR.

PART 1:

1) The first thing you should take into consideration is the warranty of the work performed on your L-block motor. Does the warranty start after the machine shop says to come pick it up or does it begin after you start it up for the first time? Also, how long does the warranty last? Most machine shops are good about giving you some leeway on this question but it’s still an important one to have clarified before you start any engine work.

2) It’s always best to start the motor project last because, having it done early, only delays the inevitable. If you put the motor in and there is a problem, you want to know that the warranty is intact. If possible, have your motor pre-run on an engine test stand for a period of at least 12 to 30 hours and run at various RPM’s. This should give you a good overview of any problems that may come up. If a test stand is not an option, then put the motor into the vehicle but leave as much of the front clip off of the vehicle as possible.
Some of the common problems are usually improper or defective oil pump or oil pump installation. We have found that some, if not most, of today’s oil pumps need to be taken apart and checked for slight malfunctions where by you need to make small modifications to prevent the pump from seizing up during your run-in period. INSTALLATIONS IN RELATION TO THE PROPER TIMING OF YOUR DISTRIBUTOR, REAR MAIN SEAL LEAKAGE AND IMPROPER VALVE ADJUSTMENT are also common mistake-prone areas.

PART 2:

SAVING MONEY IS ALWAYS IMPORTANT!!!

a) Before bringing your short block over to the machine shop, it’s always best to break down as much of the motor as you can by removing the following components:
b) Bell housing clutch and flywheel
c) Head and head studs
d) Manifold and studs
e) Timing cover plate & timing plate studs followed by removing the timing gear sprocket & chain or gear (CJ style)
f) Freeze plugs
g) Cam and cam bushing.
h) Oil pan, bearing caps and crank
i) Valve cover, valve springs and valves (Leave the guides to for the machine shop)
j) Piston rods and separate the piston heads from the rods
k) Oil pump
l) If you can, try and remove the valve guides with the proper tool. These should be pressed out on a press and not hammered out by hand. (Leave them for the machine shop if you don’t feel comfortable about this procedure)

2) By removing and or breaking down as much of the block, this will save you plenty of money in the long run. Be careful not to break or damage any of the studs or GUIDE HOLES as this will only cost you money. If anything is tight or unforgiving leave it for the machinist. Bring your machinist everything related to the basic short block. A large painters bucket is always handy when bringing all of your engine parts to your machinist. Make sure to mark in felt pen the serial number of your motor on the surface of the bucket so that they won’t confuse your parts with someone else’s, while they inspect every component for ware or damage.
Tell them that you don’t want the motor to be more than 30 over on the cylinder holes. It’s always best to consider re-sleeving the cylinders back to factory standards when ever possible.

3) Be prepared to replace tappets, piston rods and piston heads. Many engine re builders will try to re-use your old parts in order to save time and money. Used parts are usually the reason for motor break- down within the first 5,000 miles.

4) Take close attention to your engine head thickness. The factory head thickness from the flat spot above the valves to the gasket surface was approximately .500. Preferably, one should not go below .275 as this may cause problems when test running you’re freshly rebuilt engine. Too much metal taken off the head can and/or will cause higher compression which in this case, is not a good thing. The 6-volt system lacks the power to turn the motor over when higher compression is evident. Your valve clearance is also an issue when over shaving the head surface. Take a moment to ask your re builder if they think the stud hole threads look strong enough. Sometime it is wise to have the thread holes re welded and re drilled then tapped for extra strength. Most machine shops think helical coils work well enough but if you ever have to remove a stud later it may cause a problem with a helical coiled hole. Note: Head shims are available through Classic Military Automotive if you need to bring the thickness up to an acceptable specification.

PART 3: Assembly and Prep of Motor and Motor Components

1) Machine shops do not usually paint your basic engine block however they do bake and clean most engines. The cleaning process is fairly thorough however residual metal shavings can be found in the oil galley’s and small passageways. The best way to remove these excess materials is by performing a simple high-pressure steam wash by using any conventional and portable, high-pressure washer. Place your nozzle firmly up to all of the orifices and blast any debris and grinding oils out of each hidden passageways wherever possible. This will lessen any chances of material damaging your crank bearings during the break in period.
At this point your casted block will begin to lightly rust. Simply wire wheel your blocks outer surface off as best as you can and then apply a strong primer base. (CMA suggests the DP Concept 40 LF or 50LF catalyst primer). After the primer is thoroughly dry apply whatever color best fits your factory color. The DP 40 gray primer is very close to the Ford GPW gray and should not need any additional gray topcoat. DP is sufficiently strong enough and the color will last a long time.

2) Your original head studs are usually not a good replacement for effective head torque and extended use. If you plan on driving your vehicle often, original factory marked bolts may look good but they can also start to leak coolant. The best engine stud is one without the hex head. It is better to use a headless stud (preferably temper coated studs) because when torquing it only puts pressure on top of the head and does not tend to pull up on the machined threads in the top of the block. A high temperature sealer is also a good product to use on your threaded studs. Toyota makes a high-strength black sealer called Seal Packaging 102 (fipg). Use of this product will lesson you chances of coolant leakage around the base of the stud. Wipe away any residual when using this product. Use gloves with this product for it will stain your hands and the wife may tell you to go away for a few years before she lets you touch her ever again!

3) Make sure your manifold is thoroughly restored and resurfaced before reassembling it to your motor. Improperly rebuilt manifolds will cause vacuum leaks and your engine will not run to its optimum potential. Use of the DP primer is also good for items like manifolds because of its high resistance to heat. Your timing chain cover, pulley wheel, valve cover, water pump, oil pump, thermostat housing, bell housing, throttle body etc. may also be coated with DP for extended surface life.
Installing as much of the bolt on components before installing your motor will be easier on the bench. Take the time to save your back!

PART 4:THE BREAKING-IN PERIOD

1) Now that your motor is assembled, you can begin starting your engine. Make sure your radiator is full of water and your engine has the required amount of oil. When breaking in a fresh motor, it’s always good to use good quality motor oil. CMA suggests using the Chevron Delo 400 for your breaking in period.

2) After staring your engine keep the idol up to around 2,000 rpm for about 8 to 10 minutes. This will help seat the rings in the cylinders. Lower your idol down to about where you’re idol position should be and check your fuel mixture and proper idol range. Sometimes L-block engines have a distinct miss after the warm up period. This can be due to your fuel mixture and the fact that your valves have not seated totally or your distributor is insufficient or worn out.

3) Driving your jeep for about 500 or more miles may cure most of the miss however the W/O Carter carburetor is usually the main reason for extended ruff idol. If the distributor is found to be the problem then a Pertronic’s electronic rebuild kit may help this problem. These kits allow for a hotter spark resulting in better ignition.

NOTE: PROPER DISTRIBUTOR AND CARBURETOR REBUILDING MAY BE NECESSARY FOR YOUR MOTOR TO RUN AT ITS OPTIMUM LEVEL.

Thank you for your interest in Classic Military Automotive, a division of CMA North Bay. If you have any questions, comments, or just want to drop us a line, please feel free to e-mail Terry at gpajeep@yahoo.com. Prefer talking to someone instead of typing? Give us a call at (707) 542-4353. We are typically around seven days a week, so don’t hesitate to contact us to make an appointment.

Free - $4,000.00

Back in the 1990’s, I was looking in this price range for my first Jeep.  After a long search, I wound up starting with a frame and a pair of axles. This turned out to be an unexpectedly expensive way to go. Over time, I discovered that I actually spent more on parts than I would have if I had purchased a running vehicle to begin with.

While this may seem cautionary, purchasing a vehicle in this price range may be right for you. If you are looking for a slow-moving project, or a vehicle to learn on, this might be the way to go.  Just remember, never be in a hurry to buy just any Jeep.

Jeeps within this price range typically have many unknowns.  When were they last running?  How many parts have been borrowed, or replaced, from more modern vehicles? Making a checklist of inspection items is a great way to take inventory of what you’re working with in the vehicle you’re looking at.

Take a thorough look at the frame. Have the bumpers been modified, replaced, or welded in different ways? Are the frame rails straight, and free from rot?  Are there extra patches, or reinforcing plates welded along the frame anywhere?  The frame is the most important part of your project. If you start with a bad frame, you will never be able to achieve the end result you are looking for (not to mention, it is unsafe).

How about the body, and other sheet metal?  Do you want to repair the original body, or are you willing to use a cost, and time, saving reproduction body?  Do you have the skills necessary to complete the body work, or are you able, and willing, to learn?

Has the engine been running recently?  Is it a period-appropriate engine?  Does the engine serial number match the frame number (a rare find in any condition)?

Most collectors buy jeeps in this price range for the usable parts. The more original hardware you find on a jeep is certainly a bonus on any purchase. Also, try to find a jeep with all of the vehicle identification tags. Even better, locate a jeep with a title; otherwise, you may want to continue looking. Registering a non-titled vehicle can be troublesome though it’s not impossible. Many of these old vehicles have lost titles and most DMV’s will honor a Bill of Sale with a statement of facts that are signed by both parties.

$4,000 - $8,000

This seems to be a price range that most buyers prefer. Unfortunately, it’s also where buyers tend to make the most mistakes. Don’t think buying a Jeep is like buying a good newer used car in this price range! You have to remind yourself that you cannot compare apples with oranges. These classic jeeps are becoming the next “hot” collector’s car so look at them as investments.

Sellers often use extreme comparable sales data to justify asking a higher price. Many of the jeeps in this price range turn over, and will run down the road; however, after further investigation, one will find that many short cuts were used in past maintenance attempts. What were the previous owner’s driving and maintenance habits. If you have to tear the whole vehicle apart to repair shoddy repairs to essential components, the cost could nearly negate the purchase price. This is where you need to do your research. Be very familiar with bad performance issues. A good resource for how a Jeep should perform is to ask a neutral third party who has a fully restored jeep or will let you test-drive a “good driver.” (See step #1)

Jeeps in this price range usually look good from a distance, but the work required quickly becomes more apparent on closer inspection. Issues to note are massive oil leaks, hard starting, large amounts of body filler, after-market wiring, noticeable wandering while driving, paint over rust on both the under carriage and body, rusty frame supports, etc. Look for these types of red flags. If there are numerous noticeable defects, you might as well save some more money and go look in a higher price range.

$8,000 - $13,000

A lot of jeeps in this range seem to have most of the period-correct hardware whether it is reproduced or original. If you are a purist, then you need to be looking for the later. The motors can be rebuilt or in good running order. You should make an attempt to give the engine a complete compression and/or leak-down test before you buy. Refer to your notes on a good running jeep that you have driven. This should give you a good point of reference for minor problems that could turn into major ones.

Most of the sellers in this range have had these jeeps for quite a while. They may tend to look past things like the transmissions jumping out of gear on a downhill run. I’ve heard most persons address this with,” I just hold it in by hand because you normally don’t drive in second gear”. Again, watch for oil leaks in and around the transmission and transfer case. Dried-out seals or worn-out seals are usually the culprits. Rear main leaks are also common in new rebuilds. A good re-builder, though, will have been careful with this so it shouldn’t be an issue. Unfortunately, many people are told “they all leak”. This is a definite red flag, and should not be taken as a valid excuse.

Be careful not to be mesmerized by extras like radios, machine guns and/or mounts, canvas, military carrying bags and nick knacks. Focus on the working order of the vehicle first. A lot of sellers tend to push the price up to due to the extras. It’s true that the more stuff you add to the jeep, the more authentic it looks; however, you can’t become enamored by the “glitz and glimmer” until you look deeper into the vehicle. You may still have to consider a reproduction body kit even in this price range!

$13,000 - $19,000

Don’t be fooled by what you find in this range. I have seen restorations that need to be torn down and re-done. A fully restored WWII jeep with all, or most, components being reproduced is very common these days. So much so, that even the reproduction parts are getting very pricey. If you were to start from the ground-up in our first price range, your cost outlay in parts would be in this range - not including your time or labor.

If you are lucky though, you may find collectors in this category that are only trying to recoup what they have invested. The quality of their work is solely for your discretion. Be objective. Ask a lot of pointed questions. Were the differentials rebuilt? Who rebuilt the transmission? Who did the motor? Is there a good title? What components are original and which are not? Take notes.

Make sure all of the canvas, especially the canvas summer top, is in good condition and intact. The jeep should have all of its factory equipment such as the tire pump, crank handle, fire extinguisher, oil can under the hood, lubrication chart, rifle rack, etc.  Of course, some of these items would not typically be present in earlier Jeeps, but you would know this from all of the research you’ve already done!

Have the engine and transmission checked out thoroughly by you, or by an experienced professional. Ask for all receipts, maintenance records; as well as, before and after restoration pictures. Ask about warranties for the engine and other major components. Ask for a copy of the warranties to determine whether the grantor(s) is/are still bound by the terms and conditions.

1. A price range of $19,000 to $25,000 (Upper range)

If you are still searching for your “perfect” jeep in this range, you are probably still not convinced of the quality of the rebuilds that you’ve located so far. You can’t find that jeep that was built in that exact year of your relative’s involvement in WW2. Or you want something all original or rare or both. You may have more success in this range.

Most of these sellers keep exacting records or maintenance logs. Most of these jeeps have not seen off-road conditions. That’s not to say you should be leery of driving the jeep on such roads. Just try to stay away from enjoying a pleasant trail encountering mud and watery conditions without ending the drive with a good cleaning. Remember, these old jeeps love to be driven. Letting it just sit around in your garage waiting for a once in a while parade is not driving it!

You will most likely find both reproduction and original components in this price range. You will need to consider that the more original the jeep the higher the price.

This brings up a good question. What is the value difference between reproduction and original? The current market doesn’t really define the differences well. In a monetary sense, it currently is around $4000 to $5000 in general.

Note: If you are looking hire a professional restore one for you just the way you want it, then this price range is inadequate. When I’m asked ” how much to restore “one by custom order, the answer is still the same. It doesn’t matter if you want to restore a 1965 Mustang, 1957 Chevy, Hot Rod, or WW2 Jeep. If you have hire someone do it for you, then you are going to pay more than the current re-sale market. This is particularly due to the meticulous labor that’s involved. An average shop rate today is around $100-$125/hour. It normally takes at least 1 month just to repair the body and body components on an original style jeep. If you compute the shop rate with an average of 6 hours a day 5 days a week for 1 man over 4 weeks, it would be $15,000 for just the bodywork. However, if you can accept a reproduction body kit, then you save quite a bit. You can add from there with the engine rebuild, transmission work, electrical etc. In other words, a standard WW2 Jeep fully restored with all of the warranties, delivered with a title, should run in the neighborhood of $40,000 or more. For prototype’s, however, one must consider that the costs would be even greater due to the limited availability of parts, the need to reproduce many of the parts or having to pay top dollar to acquire them.

1. A price of $25,000 to $40,000 (Special or customized range)

In this price range, you’ve decided that you want an all-original jeep restored to perfection with all of the bells and whistles and built exactly the way you order it. No expense spared. You want all of the best performance issues addressed such as a top of the line engine rebuild balanced, blue printed, and pre-tested. You want a rare or early body type with either the Ford or Willy’s logos on the back (also known as the “Script” era).

Whether you supply a jeep for restoration or one is supplied for you, this is a common price range to pay from a professional shop. Be careful of places that say they can do it for any less! They are not telling you the truth and will not be giving you the best job you deserve. Get more than one bid from different sources. Be sure ask them how many they have restored and for a list of restoration customers that you can interview. You get what you pay for. So, expect to be paying more to get the best!

Sometimes purchases can be made from museums or large collectors. In this instance, though, be careful to watch for whether it’s a jeep that’s been stored for display or for use. I’ve seen nice original jeeps in this category with huge oil leaks under them because the seals being were all dried out from lack of use. The brakes may not be in working order because the DOT 3 or 4 fluid has a tendency to corrode the cylinders from inactivity. However, if it’s been stored with silicon fluid then they should be fine and in working order.

The first step in purchasing a WWII military Jeep is the same as purchasing any classic, or vintage, vehicle - Do the Research! Find as much literature as you can about the vehicle you are considering investing in. Look at all of the aspects of purchasing, restoring, repairing, maintaining, registering, insuring, and owning the vehicle. Become as intimately knowledgeable of the vehicle as possible before you start looking.  This way, you will be ready to look at the vehicles with a more realistic outlook and make an informed decision.

In the case of a WWII military Jeep, the first step should be to buy a reproduced manual. Reproduced manuals are available through Portrayal Press (info@portrayal.com). Order the standard TM 9-803 WW2 Jeep Manual. Read the whole book from front to back. Become familiar with all of the parts and tools involved. This will greatly enhance your knowledge of how the Jeep operates. There are also a lot of pictures and exploded diagrams of the components. This is beneficial when looking at a Jeep for purchase since it will help you make a mental inventory of the parts you are purchasing and the parts you will need to purchase to complete your restoration.

Buy a copy of the All American Wonder, ISBN 0-910667-20-9, by Ray Cowdery.¹ This book is available on Amazon.com, and other similar websites, or can be ordered at a local bookstore. It will give you a better perspective of the whole story of the Jeep, its evolution and the production differences between Ford, Willys-Overland and the first manufacturer, Bantam. Continue to buy as many reference books and manuals and collect as much information as possible.

Find a current owner, or a collector’s club. Inquire about the pros and cons of owning the vehicle. Better yet, test drive one. Remember that during WWII, young, thin and mostly shorter-built GI’s drove these jeeps. You may find it is somewhat uncomfortable to drive one. There are subtle changes that can be made to a seat that will make it more forgiving to drive. Knowing how the vehicle feels and handles will help you determine to what degree of authenticity you would like to own.  Do you need to have the perfectly formed original seat, or would you rather have a modified seat that allows for some extra movement?

After you have done your research, it is time to move on to our next installment: Second Step: Finding the Right Jeep.

¹ Ray Cowdery’s All American Wonder books actually come in three volumes, so be sure to read customer reviews of each book before purchasing one of them.  Although it is more expensive than the others, our recommendation is Volume III, which provides the most comprehensive overview of the history of the WWII military Jeep.

The Military Jeep Buyer’s Guide is Classic Military Automotive’s suggestions on things to consider when looking to purchase a WWII military Jeep. The focus is primarily about WWII military Jeeps; however, it really applies to purchasing any classic, or vintage, vehicle.

A buddy of mine once asked: “Do you have more money than time or more time than money?”. The real questions should be: “How skilled are you at restoration or repair?” and “How badly do you have to have it?!”.

Some say that the word Jeep stands for Just Empty Every Pocket. Throughout my life, the original Jeep has always been appealing because of it’s ruggedness and compact design. Veterans that drove them were amazed by it’s capabilities, both on and off road. That feeling still holds true with many owners that drive them today.

Unfortunately, almost all of the Jeeps that you find, regardless of price range, are in need of some degree of restoration or repair. In the “old days,” one could find a running Jeep in somewhat descent shape for an affordable price; however, today, with the latest surge of activity in the collector car market and the “baby boomers” becoming closer to retirement, the WW2 jeep has escalated in value.

Thankfully, for to those who have carried on the love of this vehicle, some collectors have gone to great lengths to expand the industry. These vendors have made new old stock (NOS) and reproduction parts more obtainable for almost anyone - though these parts are not necessarily less expensive. Almost all of the parts are available now, right down to the frame. Some of the original parts like the transmission and transfer case housings, as well as the motor blocks, are not as easily obtained, and need to be found before you can say the vehicle is completely reproduced.

Stay tuned for the next installment of the Military Jeep Buyer’s Guide entitled: The First Step: Do the Research.

Searching for the right jeep can be quite a lengthy process, but armed with all of your research, and newly acquired knowledge, you should start by looking in your own back yard! Start with the classified ads section of your local newspaper. Call your local off-road clubs or supply outfits and ask if they know of jeeps for sale. Over half a million jeeps were produced during the war, so you never know what may be lurking near you.

Within the United States, the few states that massed surplus in depots are typically where the greatest concentration of jeeps ended up in the private civilian sector. For instance, in California (where we are located), the San Francisco Bay area was a huge production, supply, and shipping center during WWII. After the war, a great deal of military surplus ended up in both the rural and suburban areas around the state. Pennsylvania and Virginia were known to have large military depots as well. Many military bases around the US, in highly populated areas, have had more of these vehicles liquidated in surplus sales. They are now in the hands of private collectors.

The Military Vehicles Magazine is another good place to look for vehicles in your area. This magazine is circulated worldwide, and has a classified section towards the back of each issue. Once you obtain a copy of this magazine, look to see where the next military swap meet is being held and go to one. Many collectors sell their military vehicles at these events as well as other unique hardware for the jeep.

Another good source is to find the nearest WWII reenactment group, or club, closest to you. These groups often use vintage military equipment in their events. Sometimes they have vehicles for sale or know of someone who might be thinking of selling.

Of course, you can always refer to the Vehicles for Sale area on our site, or refer to our Military Vehicle Resources area on our homepage for other notable classic military resources.

In our next installment, we will be discussing everyone’s favorite topic - pricing! Stay tuned for: Step Three: Making Your Purchase Decision